How To Make Your Own Laundry Detergent

Learn how to make your own laundry detergent, and enjoy clean clothes for less.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 10-15 minutes

Here's How:

1. Mix together two parts Borax, two parts Washing Soda and one part grated Fels-Naptha soap to create your own laundry detergent (You can make as much or as little as you'd like).
2. Use up to three level tablespoons per wash load.
3. Store the rest in a lidded container, out of the reach of children and pets.
   
   - Recipe Courtesy of James77777

Tips:

1. Be sure to label your detergent container, so others will know what's inside. Include a list of the ingredients as an added safety measure.
2. Borax sells under the name 20 Mule Team, and can be found on the laundry aisle. You should be able to find Washing Soda and Fels-Naptha soap there too.
3. Having trouble locating Fels-Naptha soap on the laundry aisle? Check to see if it's in with the bar soap.
4. If the grocery store or discount store that you shop at doesn't stock these ingredients, try an international grocery store.
5. Zote, Ivory or castile soap can be used in place of Fels-Naptha.

What You Need

• Borax
• Washing Soda
• Fels Naptha Soap
• Read the rest here

Homemade Baking Powder Recipe

Baking powder is a key ingredient in many cake, cookie and bread recipes; but that doesn't mean you have to pay someone else to make it. Here's how to make your own baking powder:

Prep Time: 2 minutes

Total Time: 2 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 2 teaspoons cream of tartar
• 1 teaspoon corn starch (optional)

Preparation:

Mix the baking soda and cream of tartar together until well combined. Use immediately.
Yield: One tablespoon of baking powder.
To store baking powder: Add a teaspoon of corn starch to the mixture, and stir. This will absorb any moisture from the air, and prevent the baking powder from reacting before you need it. Store in an air-tight container.
Did You Know? Most commerically-produced baking powder contains aluminum--sodium aluminum sulfate to be exact. Make your own baking powder, and keep your baked goods aluminum-free.

How To Make Buttermilk Substitute

Making a recipe that calls for buttermilk? Use this simple substitute, and you won't need to buy any:

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 5 minutes

Ingredients:

• Milk (just under one cup)
• 1 Tablespoon white vinegar or lemon juice

Preparation:

1. Place a Tablespoon of white vinegar or lemon juice in a liquid measuring cup.
2. Add enough milk to bring the liquid up to the one-cup line.
3. Let stand for five minute. Then, use as much as your recipe calls for.
Have heavy cream in the fridge? If so, you have everything you need to make real buttermilk

New How to Make Buttermilk

Once you see how easy it is to make buttermilk, you'll want to make your own everytime. Here's how:

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 10 minutes

Ingredients:

• Heavy cream (avoid ultra-pasteurized)

Preparation:

1. Fill a jar halfway with heavy cream. Then, screw the lid on firmly (a canning jar works well for this purpose).
2. Start shaking the jar back and forth. After several minutes, the cream will thicken and turn into whipped cream. Keep shaking until the whipped cream is replaced with a yellow glob (butter) and a separate liquid (buttermilk).
3. Pour the buttermilk out of the jar, and use it in any recipe that calls for buttermilk.
To Use the Butter: Knead it under cold water for a couple minutes to remove any remaining buttermilk (it will spoil very quickly, if you don't). Then, salt (if desired), and store in the refrigerator until you're ready to use it.

You can be interested on these

• Frugal Living
• Frugal Living Tips
• Buttermilk Powder
• Powdered Buttermilk
• Buttermilk Powder Substitute

How To Make your Own Chocolate Lip Balm

Chocolate Lip Balm

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 small container; lip balm tube or a small tub with cap
• 3 tablespoons cocoa butter
• 5 chocolate chips
• 1 vitamin E capsule
• 1/4 teaspoon cooking oil

Preparation:

Melt the cocoa butter in the microwave in a small plastic mixing bowl. Do not overcook. Add the chocolate chips and stir until they are melted. Put into microwave for 10 seconds if needed. Wasting no time, add oil and cut open vitamin E capsule and squeeze into mixture. Stir well. Pour into container.

Note about supplies: Cocoa butter and vitamin E are found at your neighborhood pharmacy. Containers can be found at the craft store. All other ingredients can be found at your local grocery store.

How To Make Apple Cinnamon Lip Balm

Apple Cinnamon Lip Balm. Fun teen craft and party activity using this easy lip balm recipe.The flavoring for this lip balm was designed for fall and holiday related events.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 small container; lip balm tube or a small tub with cap
• 4 tablespoons cocoa butter
• 3 drops cinnamon flavor oil
• 4 drops of apple flavor oil
• 1 teaspoon of honey
• 1/4 teaspoon cooking oil
• 1 vitamin E capsule

Preparation:

Melt the cocoa butter in the microwave in a small plastic mixing bowl. Do not overcook. Add the apple and cinnamon flavor oil and the honey. Mix well. Put into microwave for 5 seconds if it starts to harden while you are mixing. The apple and cinnamon oils give the lip balm flavor and the honey sweetens it.

Wasting no time, add cooking oil and cut open vitamin E capsule and squeeze into mixture. Stir well. Pour into container.
Note about supplies: Cocoa butter and vitamin E are found at your neighborhood pharmacy. Containers can be found at the craft store. All other ingredients can be found at your local grocery store

How To Mkae Your Own Candy Flavored Lip Gloss Recipe

Candy Flavored Lip Gloss Recipe

how to :

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. honey
• 3/4 tsp. beeswax, grated
• 1/2 tsp. pure cocoa butter
• 1/2 tsp. candy flavored oil of your choice, taste and add more if you wish
• 1 vitamin E capsule

Heat olive oil, honey, grated beeswax and cocoa butter over low heat. As soon as it is melted, take away from heat and stir in the vitamin E and candy flavored oil. test for taste and adjust if necessary. Pour into containers.

How To Make Your Own Cocoa Lip Gloss Recipe

Make your own chocolate flavored lip gloss using this recipe.

Materials Needed:

• Powdered Cocoa Mix
• Petroleum Jelly
• Small Container

Instructions:
Put desired amount of petroleum jelly into a small glass bowl. Put it in a microwave for 30 seconds; take it out and stir. Continue doing this until the Vaseline is melted. Add the desired amount of cocoa powder (experiment!) and stir. Microwave for 30 more seconds and stir. Set it aside to cool.
Once it is cool enough to handle, spoon it into a small container (recycle old makeup containers or 35mm film containers, or look in stores that carry beads, crafts, or fishing tackle). Set it aside until the petroleum jelly gets firm, and then it is ready to use!
You can also use this recipe to make fruit lip gloss by using powdered juice mix instead of cocoa.

How To Make Vanilla Lip Gloss Craft Recipe

Vanilla Lip Gloss Craft Recipe

 Make Your own Vanilla Lip Gloss Craft Recipe and save money.Here is how:

• 1 Tablespoon Petroleum Jelly
• 1 Tablespoon Aloe Vera Gel
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Coconut Oil
• 1/2 teaspoon Vanilla

Heat ingredients together in a double-boiler and pour into jars. Cool and seal.

How to Make your own spray starch for free and save money

How to Make your own spray starch, and enjoy crisp collars and pleats on the cheap. Here's step by step guide on how:

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 5 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 heaping tablespoon corn starch
• 1 pint cold water
• 1-2 drops essential oil (optional)

Preparation:

1. Combine the cornstarch and water in a bowl, and stir until the cornstarch is completely dissolved. (The mixture will be milky in color)
2. Add in a couple drops of essential oil for fragrance, if desired.
3. Then, transfer to a spray bottle, and use.

Tips:

1. For best results, shake before each use.
2. A little goes a long way, so use sparingly.

Did You Know?

• Commerically-produced spray starch usually contains formaldehyde – yuck!
• Starching clothes actually makes them last longer because dirt and perspiration sticks to the starch and not to the fabric

How to Create Progress Bars in Excel With Conditional Formatting

Progress bars are pretty much ubiquitous these days; we’ve even seen them on some water coolers. A progress bar provides instant feedback on a given process, so why not bring some of that graphical pizzazz into your spreadsheet, using Excel’s Conditional Formatting feature?

Progress Bars in Excel 2010

“Bar-type” conditional formatting has been around since Excel 2007. But Excel 2007 would only make bars with a gradient – the bar would get paler and paler towards the end, so even at 100% it wouldn’t really look like 100%. Excel 2010 addresses this by adding Solid Fill bars that maintain one color all throughout. These are ideal for creating progress bars.

Creating The Bar

The first thing you have to do is enter a numeric value into the cell you’d like to format. You can either enter the value directly or use a formula. In our case I’ll just type it in.

Note how I made the column wider; you don’t necessarily have to do this, but it does help make the bar look more like a “bar” (and not just a colored cell).
Now click Conditional Formatting, select Data Bars and click More Rules.

In the New Formatting Rule dialog check the box that says Show Bar Only (so the number doesn’t appear in the cell). Under Minimum and Maximum, select Type as Number. Then, set the Value to the minimum (beginning) value of your scale and maximum (the top of your bar, the end of the process). We’ll just go for 0 and 100, but you could set this to anything that works for you.
Now let’s configure the Bar Appearance. Make sure the Fill is Solid Fill and select the color you’d like to use. When you’re done, the dialog should look similar to this:

Now click OK, and you’re done! At this point you should have a beautiful, crisp progress bar adorning your spreadsheet.

MAKING LIQUID SOAP

            MAKING LIQUID SOAP

By Ellen Peacock of Ellen’s Essentials, © October 2003

http://www.ellensessentials.com/

Making liquid soap is truly an art. It’s hard to find a recipe that works. Most recipes end up watery, thin and cloudy. That is not a problem for some, but we like our soap thick and we want it as clear as possible! However, after many semi/un-successful tries at making liquid soap I finally gave up. It just wasn’t meant to be. Try as I might, my soap was always cloudy or runny or both. So, we simply quit. I had enough liquid laundry soap already! Of course, most soap makers are the determined sort and I decided to try again. With books, tablet and calculator in hand I headed for a quiet corner to read. I wrote down tidbits of what I learned as I went. Taking notes was a big help. The information is just too complicated to carry around in my head.

What did I learn?

To begin with, our soap was cloudy. I was not adding enough lye to

neutralize the fatty acids. Fatty acids can cause the soap to cloud up. Superfatting and soap clarity are not friends. So, I used as close as I could possibly get to the exact amount of KOH recommended for the oils I chose to use. Next I found I wasn’t cooking the soap long enough. Cooking/Heat helps speed up the chemical reaction. Paste for liquid soap needs to be cooked until it reaches that clear Vaseline stage. If it’s not cooked to that stage it can still be clarified, by cooking the liquid soap until it clears. It’s time consuming and not very efficient clarify the soap by cooking after it’s diluted. And, I was over diluting my soap. I added way too much water at the end of the cook. When figuring out how much water to dilute your soap with, the amount of water you add to the oils in the lye solution must be considered. Since soft oils soaps start gelling back up at 30%, we settled for a 29% dilution ratio for our soft oils soaps, but we were adding way too much. Originally we calculated we should add approximately 7 pounds (112 ounces) of water to 3 pounds of Vaseline stage soap gel. WRONG!!!! If we take into account the 33 mounces of water we added to the oil in the lye solution, we would add about 79 ounces of water instead of 112. Otherwise we end up with water thin soap and it takes a really long time to boil off 33 ounces of water! With by making the above changes, we are much happier with our finished liquid soaps.

A LIQUID SOAP RECIPE THAT WORKS!!!

33 oz. Sunflower Seed Oil

14 oz. Coconut oil

11 oz. KOH

2 oz. Potassium Carbonate

33 ounces distilled water

(Yes, we know that when you run this recipe thru the lye calculators that it

appears to be lye heavy but, it’s just right.) Be sure and use all the recommended safety gear when you make soap.. goggles, gloves long sleeved shirt, long pants and shoes, etc. We use a crock pot to make our soap. A crock pot is just easier and more efficient than the double boiler method. We’ve also heard of putting the soap in a oven proof pot and cooking it in the oven. The crock pot still seems like the most efficient way. Potassium Carbonate? What’s that for? Potassium Carbonate makes the soap easier to stir. I’m for anything that makes the process of making liquid soap easier. Especially the stirring! Add the oils to the crock pot. Don’t bother heating the oils up. It’s not going to make a big difference. You’re going to be cooking this soap. In your lye mixing container, add the KOH and Potassium Carbonate to the 33 ounce of water. Once the lye and potassium carbonate are dissolved, add the lye water solution to the oils. Stick blend the mixture until it has traced. Put the lid on your crock pot and set it on low. Check the soap paste and stir often. 20 minute intervals worked for us. If the soap seems to have separated, just stir it until it comes back to trace. Cook the soap for 2.5 to 3 hours in the crockpot. Don’t forget to give it a stir! When the soap has reached the vaseline stage turn the crock pot off but leave the lid on to retain keep the soap hot. In a large pot on the stove heat 79 or 80 ounces of water to boiling. Adjust the heating element to low. Carefully add the soap paste to the hot boiled water. Stir it a bit and put the lid on. And turn the heat off. Let the soap sit and dissolve. It may take some time to dissolve the soap. When the soap starts to cool, heat the soap solution back up and stir the soap and put the lid back on. Repeat as necessary until the soap is diluted. You may add more water to the soap to thin it out more if you’d like. Let the soap cool all the way down. Put some of the soap in a clear container and look at it. Sometimes we get impatient waiting for that Vaseline stage and we’re not sure if we’ve reached it or not so we dilute the soap anyway and it’s not exactly clear. If for some reason your is not as clear as you’d like cook the diluted soap longer. Our soap was clear and the pH tested at 10. If you’d like the pH lower than 10 you can add buffering agents, boric acid or citric acid. I’m not going to go into borax, boric acid or citric acid though.. I’m satisfied with a 10

How To Make Soap

The intention here is to provide the basic data on how to make soap from the most basic materials. There are many fancier soap recipes which make better soaps, as long as you have all the ingredients. The first write-up assumes you can just go to a store and buy the ingredients. The second only assumes you have some animals you will be butchering and that you have been burning wood fires and cleverly saved the ashes.

Basic Method

[A. This first write-up is taken from Hulda Clark’s book, "The Cure for All Diseases," pages 529-530.]

A small plastic dishpan, about 10" x 12"

A glass or enamel 2-quart saucepan

1 can of lye (sodium hydroxide), 12 ounces

3 pounds of lard

Plastic gloves [really; use eye-protection too]

Water

1. Pour 3 cups of very cold water (refrigerate water overnight first) into the 2-quart saucepan.

2. Slowly and carefully add the lye, a little bit at a time, stirring it with the a wooden or plastic utensil. (Use plastic gloves for this; test them for holes first.) Do not breathe the vapor or lean over the container or have children nearby. Above all _use no metal_The mixture will get very hot. In olden days, a sassafras branch was used to stir, imparting a fragrance and insect deterrent for mosquitoes, lice, fleas and ticks.

3. Let cool at least one hour in a safe place. Meanwhile, the unwrapped lard should be warming up to room temperature in the plastic dishpan.

4. Slowly and carefully, pour the lye solution into the dishpan with the lard. The lard will melt. Mix thoroughly, at least 15 minutes, until it looks like thick pudding.

5. Let it set until the next morning, then cut it into bars. It will get harder after a few days. Then package. If you wish to make soap based on olive oil, use about 48 ounces. It may need to harden for a week.

Liquid soap

Make chips from your home-made soap cake. Add enough hot water to dissolve. Add citric acid to balance the pH (7 to 8). If you do not, this soap may be too harsh for your skin.

Basic Method When There Are No Stores!

[This write-up was taken from one done by Marietta Ellis concerning the soap-making practices of colonial America, with the tense mainly changed from the past into the present.] Saponification is a very big chemical word for the rather complex but easy to create soap making reaction. Saponification is what happens when a fatty acid meets an alkali. When fats or oils, which contain fatty acids are mixed with a strong alkali, the alkali first splits the fats or oils into their two major parts fatty acids and glycerin. After this splitting of the fats or oils, the sodium or potassium part of the alkali joins with the fatty acid part of the fat or oils. This combination is then the potassium or sodium salt of the fatty acid. As we said at the start, this is soap.

Soap Making Takes Three Basic Steps

1.Making of the wood ash lye.

2.Rendering or cleaning the fats.

3.Mixing the fats and lye solution together and boiling the mixture to make the soap.

First Let's Make The Lye

In making soap the first ingredient required is a liquid solution of potash commonly called lye. The lye solution was obtained by placing wood ashes in a bottomless barrel set on a stone slab with a groove and a lip carved in it. The stone in turn rested on a pile of rocks. To prevent the ashes from getting in the solution a layer of straw and small sticks was placed in the barrel then the ashes were put on top. The lye was produced by slowly pouring water over the ashes until a brownish liquid oozed out the bottom of the barrel. This solution of potash lye was collected by allowing it to flow into the groove around the stone slab and drip down into a clay vessel at the lip of the groove. Some colonists used an ash hopper for the making of lye instead of the barrel method. The ash hopper, was kept in a shed to protect the ashes from being leached unintentionally by a rain fall. Ashes were added periodically and water was poured over at intervals to insure a continuous supply of lye. The lye dripped into a collecting vessel located beneath the hopper.

[Use whatever you have available or can make.]

Now The Fats Are Prepared

The preparation of the fats or grease to be used in forming the soap is the next step. This consists of cleaning the fats and grease of all other impurities contained in them. The cleaning of fats is called rendering and is the smelliest part of the soap making operation. Animal fat, when removed from the animals during butchering, must be rendered before soap of any satisfactory quality can be made from it. This rendering removes all meat tissues that still remain in the fat sections. Fat obtained from cattle is called tallow while fat obtained from pigs is called lard. If soap is being made from grease saved from cooking fires, it is also rendered to remove all impurities that have collected in it. The waste cooking grease being saved over a period of time without the benefits of refrigeration usually become rancid, so this cleaning step is very important to make the grease sweeter. It will result in a better smelling soap. The soap made from rancid fats or grease will work just as well assoap made from sweet and clean fats but not be as pleasant to have around and use. To render, fats and waste cooking grease are placed in a large kettle and an equal amount of water is added. Then the kettle is placed over the open fire outdoors. Soap making is an outside activity. The smell from rendering the fats is too strong to wish in anyone's house. The mixture of fats and water are boiled until all the fats have melted. After a longer period of boiling to insure completion of melting the fats, the fire is stopped and into the kettle is placed another amount of water about equal to the first amount of water. The solution is allowed to cool down and left over night. By the next day the fats have solidified and floated to the top forming a layer of clean fat. All the impurities being not as light as the fat remain in water underneath the fat. You may have observed this in your own kitchen. When a stew or casserole containing meat has been put in the refrigerator, you could see the next day the same fat layer.

Finally The Soap Making Can Begin

In another large kettle or pot the fat is placed with the amount of lye solution

determined to be the correct amount. This is easier said than done. We will discuss it more later. Then this pot is placed over a fire again outdoors and boiled. This mixture is boiled until the soap is formed. This is determined when the mixture boils up into a thick frothy mass, and a small amount placed on the tongue causes no noticeable "bite". This boiling process could take up to six to eight hours depending on the amount of the mixture and the strength of the lye.

Soft and Hard Soap

Soap made with wood ash lye does not make a hard soap but only a soft soap. When the fire is put out and the soap mixture allowed to cool, the next day reveals a brown jelly like substance that feels slippery to the touch, makes foam when mixed with water, and cleans. This is the soft soap the colonists had done all their hard work to produce. The soft soap is then poured into a wooden barrel and ladled out with a wooden dipper when needed. To make hard soap, common salt is thrown in at the end of the boiling. If this is done a hard cake of soap forms in a layer at the top of the pot. As common salt may be expensive and hard to get, it is not usually wasted to make hard soap. Common salt is more valuable to give to the livestock and the preserving of foods. Soft soap works just as well as hard and for these reasons the colonists, making their own soap, did not make hard soap bars. In towns and cities where there were soap makers making soap for sale, the soap could be converted to the hard soap by the addition of salt. As hard bars it will be easier to store and transport. Hard bars produced by the soap maker were often scented with oils such as lavender, wintergreen, or caraway and were sold as toilet soap to persons living in the cities or towns. Hard soap is not cut into small bars and wrapped as has been familiar. Soap made by the soap makers is poured into large wooden frames and removed when cooled and

hard. The amount of soap a customer wants can be cut from the large bar. Soap is sold usually by the pound. Small wrapped bars were not available until the middle of the 19th century [nor maybe shortly after the end of the 20th].

Difficulties in Making Soap

The hardest part is in determining if the lye is of the correct strength, as we have said. In order to learn this, the soap maker floats either a potato or an egg in the lye. If the object floats with a specified amount of its surface above the lye solution, the lye is declared fit for soap making. Most of the colonists felt that lye of the correct strength would float a potato or an egg with an area the size of a modern quarter above the surface. To make a weak lye stronger, the solution can either be boiled down more or the lye solution can be poured through a new batch of ashes. To make a solution weaker, water is added [more data to be added here on how to determine the correct strength of lye]. A Pennsylvania Dutch recipe once carefully warned that a sassafras stick was the only

kind of implement suitable for stirring the mixture [see Hulda Clark comment above re sassafras] and the stirring must be done always in the same direction [?].

 Not Always Done Down On The Farm

Soap making as a trade had grown in direct proportion with the growth of the colonies. Even in the very early days there were tradesmen making and selling soap, who were called soapboilers. Since tallow was the main ingredient for both soap and candles, many tradesmen were producers of both. These tradesmen were called chandlers.

Potash and Pearlash Trade

Soap making and the manufacture of potash and pearlashes were closely related

trades of colonial America. Pearlash, purified potash, because of its many\ industrial uses, was an important item of export for the colonies. Pearlash, in addition to soap making, was used for making glass both in the colonies and in Europe....Potash is the residue remaining after all the water has been driven off from the lye solution obtained from the leaching of wood ashes. Pearlash is then made from thepotash by baking it in a kiln until all the carbon impurities were burned off. The fine, white powder remaining was the Pearlash....

How to Make Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite)

Sodium Hypochlorite is prepared by reacting dilute caustic soda solution with liquid or gaseous chlorine, accompanied by cooling.

Sodium Hypochlorite is commonly produced either through a batch process or through a continuous process.

See Also:

• Powell Continuous Sodium Hypochlorite Process
• Powell Batch Sodium Hypochlorite Process

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID: HOW TO MAKE LIQUID BLEACH PRODUCTION

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID: HOW TO MAKE LIQUID BLEACH PRODUCTION: "HOW TO MAKE LIQUID BLEACH PRODUCTION"

LIQUID AIR FRESHENER (LIQUID DEODORANT)

LIQUID AIR FRESHENER
(LIQUID DEODORANT)

Introduction: This is a liquid mixture used to refresher the air. It is a deodorizer. The material replaced a bad odour with a good scent.

Raw materials:

1. Active Ingredients: These are strong and good smelling perfumes. The perfumes must be heavy or oily to last long when used. Examples are

a. Citronella, H & R and super.
b. Lavender, Rose, Vanilla etc
c. Xalang, Pears, One man show etc.
These perfumes can be used separately or blended in twos, threes or more.
2. Emulsifiers: They help blend oil perfumes into water which is the major solvent.
Genapol, Calcel, Empicol, Sodium lauryl sulphate and liquid detergents are used.
3. Diluents: Diluents help keep the ingredients stable in the system. Ethanol, Butanol, Isopropanol (IPA) or secondary butanol can be used.
4. Antiseptics: They kill germs. Some of these germs cause smell to occur. Cetrimide, irgasan, paraben are very good types. These materials are however optional.
5. Water: Water is the major solvent. Water is used to dissolve the other materials needed. The water must be clear and clean.

Equipment & Tools:

1. Mixer:- This can be manual or motorized. The mixing tank can be plastic or stainless steel. This is to prevent rusting.
2. Storage Tanks:- Plastic or stainless steel types should be used.
3. Filling and sealing Unit:- This can be automatic or manual. It fills and seals the containers and the cartons. This is however optional as the process here can be handled manually as the case may be.
4. Measuring Device:- Weighing Scale and measuring cylinder are needed.
5. Others: These includes laboratory tools, personal protection equipment and other miscellaneous tools.

Packaging Materials:

They include plastic and glass bottles of 20mls, 50mls, 100mls, 500mls, 1000mls, and 4 litres. They will need to be labeled and put in good cartons or laminates.

Production Process:

1. Formulations
20 Litres Batch
a. Perfume (e.g Xalang) - 400g (about ½ Litre)
Genepol (Emulsifier) - 200g (about 1/5 Litre)
I.P.A. (Diluent) Optional - 100g (about 1/10 Litre)
Water - 19.30 Littres
Total - 20 Litres.

20 Litres Batch – Volume Measurement

b. Perfume citronella or H & R - ½ Litre
Liquid Detergent - ¼ Litre
Water - 19 ¼ Litres
TOTAL - 20 Litres



Toilet Clean Batch - 5 Litres

c. Rose perfume - ¼ Litre
Hydrochloric Acid (cetrimide) - ¼ Litre
Empicol - ½ Litre
Water - 5 Litres
Total - 6 Litres

Notes:

1. Any good perfume can be used.
2. Two perfume can be equally mixed.

Processing Method

1. Mix the perfume with the emulsifier.
2. Mix this till well blended. It may turn white.
3. Add dilute (i.e IPA) and any other additive needed as required.
4. Add the required water and mix slowing but steadily till product is fully blended and pack as needed.

Note:

1. A good liquid detergent can be used to replace Genepol or empicol weight for weight.
2. Hydrochloric acid is a germ killer.


TOILET CLEARNERS FORMULATIONS

(A) Toilet Cleaner Batch 20 litres

Rose perfume or others) 1/10 litre

Hydrochloric Acid (or Cetrimide) ¼ litre

Empicol (or Liquid Detergent) 1 litre

Soda Ash (or STPP) ½ kg

Natrosol 5TSP

Colourant (e.g Blue) 2 TSP

Water 13-15 litrers

Total 20 litres


Note:

1. Any good perfume can be used
2. Two perfume can be equally mixed
3. STPP is sodium Tripolyphosphate
4. TSP is Tablespoonful, tsp is teaspoonful.



(b) 20 litres batch Toilet Cleaner

Jasmin perfume 1/10 litre (100ml)

Sulphonic Acid ½ litre

Hydrochloric Acid ¼ litre

Soda Ash 1kg

Natrosol 5TSP

Colourant (green) 2tsp

Water 18 litres

Total 20 litres
Note:

1. A good liquid detergent can be used to replace Sulphonic Acid.
2. Hydrochlooric Acid is a germ Killer and stain remover
3. Natrosol is a thickner
4. Use only water soluble colourants
5. Empicol is a foaming agent and emulsifier to help the ingredients to mix well.

PROCESSING METHOD

1. Measure out the ingredients in separate containers
2. Place the water in the mixer (bowl or tank) and add the soda ash (or STPP) and mix till fully dissolved. (about 20 minutes)
3. Add the empicol, detergent or sulphonic acid and mix slowly to avoid excessive foaming.
4. Add the perfume and mix till well blended (if not well blended, add ¼ litre empicol or others to blend well). (About 10 minutes).
5. Into a ½ litre cup of water, put the 5TSP natrosol and mix well (about 10 seconds) and immediately add this mixture into the main product and continue mixing till the product becomes thick (about 10 minutes).
6. Add the Hydrochloric acid or cetrimide and mix well (about 5 minutes)
7. If colourant is needed, add as the last item and mix to blend (about 3 minutes)
8. Pack product as needed in the market.

HOW TO MAKE LIQUID BLEACH PRODUCTION

LIQUID BLEACH PRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION:
Bleach is a mixture or a single compound used to remove minor stains from white fabrics, ceramics, metals and related surfaces.
RAW MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS:
• Caustic Soda – It is a wetting agent here.
• Soda Ash – It helps to soften water and also cleans materials
• Sodium Hypochlorite – It is the bleaching agent that removes stains in materials
• Water – It helps to put all the materials in solution for easy use.

EQUIPMENT / TOOLS REQUIREMENTS:
• A mixer –m Manual or motorized. It should be low speed (200-500rpm).
• Filter Unit: (Manual or automatic)
• Filling / Packaging Unit – Used to fill the bottles. (It can be done manually or otherwise).
• Storage tanks, measuring devices, etc.
• Factory Wears/protectors.

PACKAGING MATERIALS:
Bleach can be packed in ½litre, 1litre, 5litres plastic or metal jerry cans. The cans should carry well made labels with he relevant information such as brand name, maker, instruction for use, etc. smaller packs like ½litre and 1litre can in turn be packed in cartons as needed by the users.
SPACE:
A standard room size space is enough for a small beginner to take off.



PRODUCTION METHOD:
(a) FORMULATION: 10 Litres Batch 100 Litres Batch
Sodium Hypo chlorite -0.5kg 5kg
Soda Ash -0.5kg 5kg
Caustic Soda -0.2kg 2kg
Water -8.7kg 87.5litres
Perfume -50mls 500mls
TOTAL -10LITRES 100 LITRES

Note: Bleach has a life span of about 2 years only.

METHOD: Mix all the ingredients except perfume in a suitable container. Keep for about 8-12 hours. Mix again very well. Keep for another 2-3 hours or when the materials clearly separates, decant the liquid portion, add perfume and pack as bleach. Filter press can be use to filter the product after the second mixing immediately.

PRODUCTION OF WHITE DISINFECTANT:

As earlier discussed, this disinfectant is based on PHENOLS or CRESOLS. It is a very powerful disinfectant used in heavily soiled areas such as Farms, Toilets, Hospitals etc.

FORMULATION I:
The formulation given below, is widely used all over the world as it meets all pharmaceutical requirements and regulatory bodies like NAFDAC. Usual precaution are however necessary.

20 Litres Batch

Sodium Stearate - 5kg
Cresol liquid (or Phenol) - 10litres
Distilled water (or others) - 5 litres
TOTAL - 20LITRES

It may be necessary to add more water and sieve after boiling. Kg can be used as parts.

PROCESSING:

Mix the sodium stearate, the cresol and water. Boil till the mixture dissolves. You may leave the mixture to stand for about one hour before boiling to see if dissolution can occur. If it does just warm the solution almost to boiling and pack. If not boil till all dissolves or for say 30 minutes. Pack when cold. You may need to filter.

FORMULATION II:

This is the commonest formulation among small scale manufactures. It is easy to make but profit is lower due to the use of phenol (disinfectant) concentrate.

20 Litres Batch Disinfectant Germicide

White Germicide Concentrate - 5 litres
Pine Oil - 2 litres
Genapol (or empicol) - 40mls (8TSP)
White Colourant Powder (optional) - 40g (8TSP)
Water - 12 litres
Total - 20 Litres

PRODUCTION METHOD:

1. Mix the concentrate with the genepol (or empicol) and add the pine oil. Then mix to fully blend. If not fully blended i.e. not homogeneous add a little extra genepol (about 1-2TSP).
2. When fully blended, add the need water and mix.
3. Add the white colourant if the colour is not whitish enough and mix till homogeneous.

Note: (I) Manual operation may take up to 50 minutes but mixing in a low speed mixer will be about 20 minutes for a small batch of less than 200 lites.
(II) The exact quantity of concentrate will depend on the quality of the one
in use. It may be more or less. Ask the supplier.

QUANTITY PARAMETERS:

Test in an approved laboratory for quality.

Note: This product, like other disinfectants require registration with NAFDAC

HOW T MAKE INSECTICIDE PRODUCTION

INSECTICIDE PRODUCTION
INDRODUCTION:
Any compound or miture that is capable of getting rid of insect pests is known as an insecticide. Most insecticides are in liquid form. However there are solid (powder) types.
SCOPE OF USAGE:
Insects such a Tse-tse fly, Housefly, Mosquito, Bedbug etc are disease vectors and hence must be checked. Insecticides are mostly used to kill or knock them down in homes, offices, churches, mosques, factories, farms and other places of human endeavour.
RAW MATERIALS REQUIREMENTS:
Permethrin, Pyrethrin, Camphor, Vapona-DDVP are active ingredients that are safe for use.
Carriers or medium include water, kerosene, butane, etc as solvents, others are powders such as Talc, Clay, Kaolin, Petroleum Jelly, Calcium Carbonate etc. Additives (optional) are colourants, perfumes, buffers etc.
EQUIPMENT/TOOLS REQUIREMENTS:
• Mixer – manual or motorized (This can be powder or liquid mixer)
• Weighing scales & factory tools.
• Storage tanks, Boilers, Fillers etc.
• Protective wears including gas chambers.
PACKAGING MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS:
The liquids are packed in pressurized metal cans or in plastic or metal bottles for dispensing by use of spray gun.
The powders are packed in plastic jars or bottles as needed.
In pressurized cans, butane should be included as a carrier gas. The cans or bottles carry instructive labels and are in turn packed in cartons or film palettes.
SPACE:
If open space with cover if available, should be preferred. If not the factory must be very well ventilated to reduce health risk. A big room or two can do for cottage beginner.
PRODUCTION METHOD:
FORMULATION: LIQUID TYPEE: 20 LITRES BATCH
Camphor 0.2 kg (i.e. 200g)
Vapona (DDVP) 0.1 kg (i.e. 100g)
White Spirit (or kerosene) 19.6 litres
Perfume (optional) 0.1 litres (i.e. 100mls)
TOTAL 20 LITRES
Note: Perfume is used to deodourise the kerosene where in use.
Vapour Type; 100 Litres Batch
Vapona or DDVP - ½ - ¾ (litre) (500mls)
Pyrethrin - ¼ - ½ kg (500 mls)
Butane - 15 – 20 litres
White Spirit - 78 – 80 litres
TOTAL - 100 LITRES
This is mixed in a pressurized mixer and transferred to a special pressure filling and corking machine where the product is packed by the machine. This mixing takes about 20 minutes.
Powder Type: 50 kg Batch
Permethrin - 1 part (kg)
Camphor powder - 1 part (kg)
Calcium carbonate - 48 (kg)
Total - 50 litres
The powders are mixed in a ribbon (powder) mixer and filled as required into bottles or sachets. This mixing should be done for at least 30 minutes.
Candle Type: 10 kg Batch about 500 sticks
Permethrin - 0.1kg (100g)
Camphor powder - 0.1kg (100g)
Dibutylpthalate (DBP) - 0.05kg (50g)
Candle wax - 9.7kg
Total - 10KG

PROCESSING METHOD:
1. Set the candle mould to receive the product.
2. Melt the wax in a separate pot or tank heater
3. Remove the heat and add the other ingredients
4. if colour is needed, add at this stage. Colour must be oil soluble, in this batch ITSP is ok.
5. Mix all the ingredients quickly and well, then pour in the cavities of the candle mould.
6. Allow solidifying – about 60 minutes and bring out the sticks for packaging. This operation must be made with the operator wearing a RESPIRATOR and in an open space or a fumed cupboard.

MODERN SOAPS,DETERGENT & DISINFECTANTS TECHNOLOGY-HOW TO PRODUCE STANDARD LAUDARY (BAR) SOAP

DISINFECTANTS

FORMULATION 1

BROWN DISINFECTANT/ANTISEPTIC STANDARD FORMULATION

Chloroxylenol Crystals - 1 part (kg)

Isopropanol (IPA) - 4 parts (litres)
Pine Oil - 3 parts (litres)
Genapol (or empicol) - 1 part (litre)
Water (with caramel) - 15-16 parts (litres)
Total - 25 litres
Adjust with IPA to clearity, if not clear brown colour.
PRODUCTION METHOD:
1. Mix chloroxylenol with IPA to dissolve the chloroxylenol.
2. Add pine oil and mix
3. Add Genapol and mix
4. Measure out the water needed in a separate container and add brown colourant to taste. This can be caramel or other safe brown colourant soluble in water.
5. Add the coloured water and mix. Adjust to clearity if necessary by adding IPA or ethanol in drops till mixture is clear. That is clear brown colour like Detol.

PRODUCTION METHOD:

FORMULATION II: This formulation is now common with small scale operators because it is easy to use and the materials are commonly available. Use is made of chloroxylenol concentrate which has the appearance of the disinfectant but it is very “heavy”
30 litres Batch formulation
Chloroxylenol liquid (concentrate) - 12 litres
Pine Oil - 3 litres
Isopropanol – IPA - 4 litres
Empicol (or Genepol) - 40 mls(8TSP)
Caramel (optional) - 40 mls (8TSP)
Water - 10 mls (8TSP)
TOTAL - 30 LITRES
PROCESSING METHOD:
1. Mix the chloroxylenol, pine oil and empicol in a mixer till they are fully blended. If not increase empicol by 1-2 TSP.
2. Mix water with the caramel colour if needed and add the mixture to no. 1 above. Mix well. The mixture may turn white.
3. Add IPA little at a time as you mix. Continue this process till the product turns
from white to golden brown stop and pack. If the 4 litres of IPA above is not enough to clear the white colour, you can add more IPA.
Note: The exact quantity of concentrate depends on the quantity of the one in use. You may need to use more than 12 litres in the case above if the quality is low. Ask the supplier.
Quality parameters: see the white disinfectant

COLD WATER STARCH PRODUCTION

COLD WATER STARCH PRODUCTION

Introduction: Cold water starch is a modified starch used to stiffen textile and other related fabric. It is simply used in cold (room temperature) water or directly on the material to be treated.
Types: There are two types, namely the powder and the liquid. However, the liquid is also found in aerosol pack.

Uses:

1. Landry and dry cleaning
2. Textile finishing (cloth, bandages, rug towels) etc
3. Fishing and other nets finishing
4. Paper smoothening (in paper production)
5. Printing finishing (Anti-set-off powder)
6. Gluing and gumming (labeling, binding & gumming)

RAW MATERIALS REQUIRMENTS:

1. Cassava starch or other modified starch, dextrin, polyvinyl aalcohol, polyvinyl acetate, soda ash, borax, formalin, Isopropanol (IPA), water and soluble colourants and perfumes. The exact materials for use depends on the type to be made.


EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS:

1. Dryer such as flash dryer of other drying equipment. Flash dryer is the best option as it is most efficient.
2. Roller mills with heater (this is noptional)
3. Planetary or Ribbon blender
4. Filling and sealing machine. This can be powder, liquid or aerosol type.
5. Pulverisers or grinders
6. Weighing scale and other measuring devices
7. Laboratory tools. Thermometers, viscometers etc.
8. Personal protective gadgets. Coverall, mask gloves, boots, earplugs etc.

PACKAGING MATERIALS:

Cold water starch can be packaged in sachet, bottles and spray cans depending on the type. Cartons are also needed for bulk packaging. Sizes of packs should depend on market demand. However, 20g, 25g, 30g, 50g sachets are in the markets 0.5 litres, 1 litre and 4 litres packs for the liquid type can be found. The aerosol type include 250mls, 450mls, 500mls etc. The packs are well labeled with the appropriate information like maker, quantity, registration etc.



Space: The standard requirement is a minimum of four rooms excluding a cloakroom. However, a cottage scale can start with a room or two. Bigger scale will require bigger space.

Labour: A skilled hand can produce up to 1 ton of the product per day if the system is automated. Far less will be make if operation is manual. Except about 250kg of finished and package product for manual operation by one hand.

Production Process: There are three or four stages of making cold water starch depending on where you start from some of these stages can be omitted by a small scale to save cost.

1. Cold water starch powder
(a) Modification of raw starch methods

i Dry method: Here the roller mills are heated to above 1000C. The raw starch mixed with ash is fed into the rollers. The starch gells as it rolls over the hot cylinders of the rollers. The gelled starch now in cakes or flakes are collected and grinded in the pulveriser. Perfume and colorant may be added at this stage.

Roller formulation: 50kg batch
Cassava (or other) starch - 49.5kg
Soda ash (optional) - 0.5kg
Total - 50 kg

This mixture is rolled in the hot cylinder of the rolers


Pulveriser formulation: 50 kg batch

Gelled starch mixture - 50 kg
Colourant (optional) - 1 TSP
Total - 50kg

The mixture is grinded

The grinded starch is now packed in the required sachets and cartons for sale. This method is expensive because of the cost of the rollers.
ii. Wet method: Here the mixture as in roller formulation above is boiled with some water to gell. The gelled starch mixture is dried in the flash dryer then pulverized as in the pulveriser formulation above.

Boiler formulation: 50 kg batch

Cassava (or other) starch - 49.5kg
Soda Ash (optional) - 0.5 KG
Water (to form sturry) - 20 kg
Total - 70 kg
Note: while boiling, the product must be in constant mixing. The gelled starch is collected and dried in the chosen dryer. This is to remove the water used during boiling. The dried starch, now in cake form is placed in the pulveriser and grinded with or without colourants and perfumes. The product is then packaged as required in the market. This is also expensive because of the dryer.

iii. Dextrin method: This method is most suitable for micro and small scale entrepreneurs. It eliminates the use of roller mills, flash dryer and pulverisers.

(b) Cold water starch powder: 50 kg Batch
Dextrin - 49.5 kg
Soda ash light - 0.5 kg
Perfume (optional) - TSP
Colourant (powder) - 1 tsp (optional or blue)
Total - 50 kg

Note: TSP means tablespoonful. Tsp means teaspoonful.

PROCESSING: The materials as above simply measured out and mixed manuallym if batch is below 100kg or in ribbon mixer for bigger batches. When homogeneous, it is packed as required.


(c) Cold water starch powder: 50 kg Batch
Dextrin or gelled starch - 20kg
Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) - 10kg
Water - 20kg
Formalin - 200 g
Perfume (optional) - 1 TSP
Total - 50 kg Apr.


PROCESSING:

(1) Gel local cassava starch with hot water: This can ba done by mixing the raw starch with equal amount of cold (ordinary) water. The mixture is the mixed with about 4 to 5 times quantity of boiling water (1000C) and properly mixed till homogeneous.

(2) The gelled starch or dextrin is mixed with the water in the formulation above. When smooth, the other ingredients (PVA, formalin etc) are then added and mixed well for feeling into the appropriate bottles for sale.


Note: The use of cassava starch here instead of dextrin ensures very good profit without changing the desired quality.


(3) Cold water starch Aeroslo. 50 kg Batch

Dextrin or gelled starch -10 kg

Polyvinyl Acetate - 10 kg

Isopropanol (IPA) - 2 kg

Water -28 kg

Formalin - 200 g

Total - 50 kg. Apr.

Note: Colourant and or perfume may be added as in other processing. Mix all other ingredients together except IPA. When homogenenous, add IPA and mix very well. Pack or fill into the aerosol cans with theaerosol filling machine. The IPA guarantees the spray ability of the product and its fast drying. For better spraying IPA can be increased if desired.

QUALITY PARAMETERS:

1. Product should stiffen cotton fabric well compare with accepted brands in its market.
2. Odour must be well controlled. Use good fragrance.
3. Spoilage. This is especially for the liquid type. However if the powder type is not well dried, it can also decay. Use good preservative (formalin) to avoid bad odour in the liquid types.
Consult a good chemical consultant or a public analyst for detailed quality control tests and analysis.

TOILET CLEARNERS FORMULATONS:

(A) Toilet Cleaner Batch 20 litres

Rose perfume (or others) - 1/10 litres

Empicol (or Liquid Detergent) - 1 litre

Soda Ash (or STPP) - ½ KG

Natrosol - 5 TSP

Colourant (e.g. Blue) - 2 tsp

Water - 13-15 litres

Total - 20 litres

Note:

1. Any good perfume can be used
2. Two perfume can be equally mixed
3. STPP is sodium Tripolyphosphate
4. TSP is Tablespoonful. Tsp is teaspoonful.

(b) 20 litres Batch Toilet Cleaner
Jasmine perfume - 1/10 litres (100ml)
Sulphonic Acid - ½ litre
Hydrochloric Acid - ¼ litres
Soda Ash - 1 kg
Natrosol - 5 TSP
Colourant (green) - 2 tsp
Water - 18 litres
Total - 20 litres

Note:
1. A good liquid detergent can be used to replaced Sulphonic Acid.
2. Hydrochloric Acid is a germ killer and stain remover
3. Natrosol is a thicker
4. Use only soluble colourants
5. Empicol is a foaming agent and emulsifier to help the ingredients to mix well.
PROCESSING METHOD:
1. Measure out the ingredients in separate containers.
2. Place the water in the mixer (bowl or tank) and add the soda ash (or STPP) and mix till fully dissolved. (about 20 minutes)
3. Add the empicol, detergent or sulphonic acid and mix slowly to avoid excessive foaming.
4. Add the perfume and mix till well blended (if not well blended , add ¼ litre empicol or others to blend well). (About 10 minutes)
5. Into a ½ litre cup of water, put the 5 TSP natrosol and mix well (about 10 second) and immediately add this mixture into the main product and continue mixing till the product becomes thick (about 5 minutes)
6. Add the Hydrochloric acid or cetrmidie and mix well (about 5 minutes)
7. If colourant is needed, add as the last item and mix to blend (about 3 minutes)
8. Pack product as needed in the market.