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Wednesday, March 28, 2012

How To Make your Own Chocolate Lip Balm


Chocolate Lip Balm

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 1 small container; lip balm tube or a small tub with cap
  • 3 tablespoons cocoa butter
  • 5 chocolate chips
  • 1 vitamin E capsule
  • 1/4 teaspoon cooking oil

Preparation:

Melt the cocoa butter in the microwave in a small plastic mixing bowl. Do not overcook. Add the chocolate chips and stir until they are melted. Put into microwave for 10 seconds if needed. Wasting no time, add oil and cut open vitamin E capsule and squeeze into mixture. Stir well. Pour into container.
Note about supplies: Cocoa butter and vitamin E are found at your neighborhood pharmacy. Containers can be found at the craft store. All other ingredients can be found at your local grocery store.

How To Make Apple Cinnamon Lip Balm


Apple Cinnamon Lip Balm. Fun teen craft and party activity using this easy lip balm recipe.The flavoring for this lip balm was designed for fall and holiday related events.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 1 small container; lip balm tube or a small tub with cap
  • 4 tablespoons cocoa butter
  • 3 drops cinnamon flavor oil
  • 4 drops of apple flavor oil
  • 1 teaspoon of honey
  • 1/4 teaspoon cooking oil
  • 1 vitamin E capsule

Preparation:

Melt the cocoa butter in the microwave in a small plastic mixing bowl. Do not overcook. Add the apple and cinnamon flavor oil and the honey. Mix well. Put into microwave for 5 seconds if it starts to harden while you are mixing. The apple and cinnamon oils give the lip balm flavor and the honey sweetens it.
Wasting no time, add cooking oil and cut open vitamin E capsule and squeeze into mixture. Stir well. Pour into container.
Note about supplies: Cocoa butter and vitamin E are found at your neighborhood pharmacy. Containers can be found at the craft store. All other ingredients can be found at your local grocery store

How To Mkae Your Own Candy Flavored Lip Gloss Recipe


Candy Flavored Lip Gloss Recipe

how to :

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp. honey
  • 3/4 tsp. beeswax, grated
  • 1/2 tsp. pure cocoa butter
  • 1/2 tsp. candy flavored oil of your choice, taste and add more if you wish
  • 1 vitamin E capsule
Heat olive oil, honey, grated beeswax and cocoa butter over low heat. As soon as it is melted, take away from heat and stir in the vitamin E and candy flavored oil. test for taste and adjust if necessary. Pour into containers.

How To Make Your Own Cocoa Lip Gloss Recipe


Make your own chocolate flavored lip gloss using this recipe.
Materials Needed:
  • Powdered Cocoa Mix
  • Petroleum Jelly
  • Small Container
Instructions:
Put desired amount of petroleum jelly into a small glass bowl. Put it in a microwave for 30 seconds; take it out and stir. Continue doing this until the Vaseline is melted. Add the desired amount of cocoa powder (experiment!) and stir. Microwave for 30 more seconds and stir. Set it aside to cool.
Once it is cool enough to handle, spoon it into a small container (recycle old makeup containers or 35mm film containers, or look in stores that carry beads, crafts, or fishing tackle). Set it aside until the petroleum jelly gets firm, and then it is ready to use!
You can also use this recipe to make fruit lip gloss by using powdered juice mix instead of cocoa.

How To Make Vanilla Lip Gloss Craft Recipe


Vanilla Lip Gloss Craft Recipe

 Make Your own Vanilla Lip Gloss Craft Recipe and save money.Here is how:

  • 1 Tablespoon Petroleum Jelly
  • 1 Tablespoon Aloe Vera Gel
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Coconut Oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon Vanilla
Heat ingredients together in a double-boiler and pour into jars. Cool and seal.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

How to Make your own spray starch for free and save money


How to Make your own spray starch, and enjoy crisp collars and pleats on the cheap. Here's step by step guide on how:

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Total Time: 5 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 1 heaping tablespoon corn starch
  • 1 pint cold water
  • 1-2 drops essential oil (optional)

Preparation:

1. Combine the cornstarch and water in a bowl, and stir until the cornstarch is completely dissolved. (The mixture will be milky in color)
2. Add in a couple drops of essential oil for fragrance, if desired.
3. Then, transfer to a spray bottle, and use.

Tips:

1. For best results, shake before each use.
2. A little goes a long way, so use sparingly.

Did You Know?

  • Commerically-produced spray starch usually contains formaldehyde – yuck!
  • Starching clothes actually makes them last longer because dirt and perspiration sticks to the starch and not to the fabric

How to Create Progress Bars in Excel With Conditional Formatting


image
Progress bars are pretty much ubiquitous these days; we’ve even seen them on some water coolers. A progress bar provides instant feedback on a given process, so why not bring some of that graphical pizzazz into your spreadsheet, using Excel’s Conditional Formatting feature?

Progress Bars in Excel 2010

“Bar-type” conditional formatting has been around since Excel 2007. But Excel 2007 would only make bars with a gradient – the bar would get paler and paler towards the end, so even at 100% it wouldn’t really look like 100%. Excel 2010 addresses this by adding Solid Fill bars that maintain one color all throughout. These are ideal for creating progress bars.

Creating The Bar

The first thing you have to do is enter a numeric value into the cell you’d like to format. You can either enter the value directly or use a formula. In our case I’ll just type it in.

Note how I made the column wider; you don’t necessarily have to do this, but it does help make the bar look more like a “bar” (and not just a colored cell).
Now click Conditional Formatting, select Data Bars and click More Rules.

In the New Formatting Rule dialog check the box that says Show Bar Only (so the number doesn’t appear in the cell). Under Minimum and Maximum, select Type as Number. Then, set the Value to the minimum (beginning) value of your scale and maximum (the top of your bar, the end of the process). We’ll just go for 0 and 100, but you could set this to anything that works for you.
Now let’s configure the Bar Appearance. Make sure the Fill is Solid Fill and select the color you’d like to use. When you’re done, the dialog should look similar to this:

Now click OK, and you’re done! At this point you should have a beautiful, crisp progress bar adorning your spreadsheet.

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

MAKING LIQUID SOAP


            MAKING LIQUID SOAP
By Ellen Peacock of Ellen’s Essentials, © October 2003

Making liquid soap is truly an art. It’s hard to find a recipe that works. Most recipes end up watery, thin and cloudy. That is not a problem for some, but we like our soap thick and we want it as clear as possible! However, after many semi/un-successful tries at making liquid soap I finally gave up. It just wasn’t meant to be. Try as I might, my soap was always cloudy or runny or both. So, we simply quit. I had enough liquid laundry soap already! Of course, most soap makers are the determined sort and I decided to try again. With books, tablet and calculator in hand I headed for a quiet corner to read. I wrote down tidbits of what I learned as I went. Taking notes was a big help. The information is just too complicated to carry around in my head.

What did I learn?
To begin with, our soap was cloudy. I was not adding enough lye to
neutralize the fatty acids. Fatty acids can cause the soap to cloud up. Superfatting and soap clarity are not friends. So, I used as close as I could possibly get to the exact amount of KOH recommended for the oils I chose to use. Next I found I wasn’t cooking the soap long enough. Cooking/Heat helps speed up the chemical reaction. Paste for liquid soap needs to be cooked until it reaches that clear Vaseline stage. If it’s not cooked to that stage it can still be clarified, by cooking the liquid soap until it clears. It’s time consuming and not very efficient clarify the soap by cooking after it’s diluted. And, I was over diluting my soap. I added way too much water at the end of the cook. When figuring out how much water to dilute your soap with, the amount of water you add to the oils in the lye solution must be considered. Since soft oils soaps start gelling back up at 30%, we settled for a 29% dilution ratio for our soft oils soaps, but we were adding way too much. Originally we calculated we should add approximately 7 pounds (112 ounces) of water to 3 pounds of Vaseline stage soap gel. WRONG!!!! If we take into account the 33 mounces of water we added to the oil in the lye solution, we would add about 79 ounces of water instead of 112. Otherwise we end up with water thin soap and it takes a really long time to boil off 33 ounces of water! With by making the above changes, we are much happier with our finished liquid soaps.

A LIQUID SOAP RECIPE THAT WORKS!!!
33 oz. Sunflower Seed Oil
14 oz. Coconut oil
11 oz. KOH
2 oz. Potassium Carbonate
33 ounces distilled water
(Yes, we know that when you run this recipe thru the lye calculators that it
appears to be lye heavy but, it’s just right.) Be sure and use all the recommended safety gear when you make soap.. goggles, gloves long sleeved shirt, long pants and shoes, etc. We use a crock pot to make our soap. A crock pot is just easier and more efficient than the double boiler method. We’ve also heard of putting the soap in a oven proof pot and cooking it in the oven. The crock pot still seems like the most efficient way. Potassium Carbonate? What’s that for? Potassium Carbonate makes the soap easier to stir. I’m for anything that makes the process of making liquid soap easier. Especially the stirring! Add the oils to the crock pot. Don’t bother heating the oils up. It’s not going to make a big difference. You’re going to be cooking this soap. In your lye mixing container, add the KOH and Potassium Carbonate to the 33 ounce of water. Once the lye and potassium carbonate are dissolved, add the lye water solution to the oils. Stick blend the mixture until it has traced. Put the lid on your crock pot and set it on low. Check the soap paste and stir often. 20 minute intervals worked for us. If the soap seems to have separated, just stir it until it comes back to trace. Cook the soap for 2.5 to 3 hours in the crockpot. Don’t forget to give it a stir! When the soap has reached the vaseline stage turn the crock pot off but leave the lid on to retain keep the soap hot. In a large pot on the stove heat 79 or 80 ounces of water to boiling. Adjust the heating element to low. Carefully add the soap paste to the hot boiled water. Stir it a bit and put the lid on. And turn the heat off. Let the soap sit and dissolve. It may take some time to dissolve the soap. When the soap starts to cool, heat the soap solution back up and stir the soap and put the lid back on. Repeat as necessary until the soap is diluted. You may add more water to the soap to thin it out more if you’d like. Let the soap cool all the way down. Put some of the soap in a clear container and look at it. Sometimes we get impatient waiting for that Vaseline stage and we’re not sure if we’ve reached it or not so we dilute the soap anyway and it’s not exactly clear. If for some reason your is not as clear as you’d like cook the diluted soap longer. Our soap was clear and the pH tested at 10. If you’d like the pH lower than 10 you can add buffering agents, boric acid or citric acid. I’m not going to go into borax, boric acid or citric acid though.. I’m satisfied with a 10

How To Make Soap

The intention here is to provide the basic data on how to make soap from the most basic materials. There are many fancier soap recipes which make better soaps, as long as you have all the ingredients. The first write-up assumes you can just go to a store and buy the ingredients. The second only assumes you have some animals you will be butchering and that you have been burning wood fires and cleverly saved the ashes.

Basic Method
[A. This first write-up is taken from Hulda Clark’s book, "The Cure for All Diseases," pages 529-530.]
A small plastic dishpan, about 10" x 12"
A glass or enamel 2-quart saucepan
1 can of lye (sodium hydroxide), 12 ounces
3 pounds of lard
Plastic gloves [really; use eye-protection too]
Water

1. Pour 3 cups of very cold water (refrigerate water overnight first) into the 2-quart saucepan.
2. Slowly and carefully add the lye, a little bit at a time, stirring it with the a wooden or plastic utensil. (Use plastic gloves for this; test them for holes first.) Do not breathe the vapor or lean over the container or have children nearby. Above all _use no metal_The mixture will get very hot. In olden days, a sassafras branch was used to stir, imparting a fragrance and insect deterrent for mosquitoes, lice, fleas and ticks.
3. Let cool at least one hour in a safe place. Meanwhile, the unwrapped lard should be warming up to room temperature in the plastic dishpan.
4. Slowly and carefully, pour the lye solution into the dishpan with the lard. The lard will melt. Mix thoroughly, at least 15 minutes, until it looks like thick pudding.
5. Let it set until the next morning, then cut it into bars. It will get harder after a few days. Then package. If you wish to make soap based on olive oil, use about 48 ounces. It may need to harden for a week.

Liquid soap
Make chips from your home-made soap cake. Add enough hot water to dissolve. Add citric acid to balance the pH (7 to 8). If you do not, this soap may be too harsh for your skin.

Basic Method When There Are No Stores!
[This write-up was taken from one done by Marietta Ellis concerning the soap-making practices of colonial America, with the tense mainly changed from the past into the present.] Saponification is a very big chemical word for the rather complex but easy to create soap making reaction. Saponification is what happens when a fatty acid meets an alkali. When fats or oils, which contain fatty acids are mixed with a strong alkali, the alkali first splits the fats or oils into their two major parts fatty acids and glycerin. After this splitting of the fats or oils, the sodium or potassium part of the alkali joins with the fatty acid part of the fat or oils. This combination is then the potassium or sodium salt of the fatty acid. As we said at the start, this is soap.

Soap Making Takes Three Basic Steps
1.Making of the wood ash lye.
2.Rendering or cleaning the fats.
3.Mixing the fats and lye solution together and boiling the mixture to make the soap.

First Let's Make The Lye
In making soap the first ingredient required is a liquid solution of potash commonly called lye. The lye solution was obtained by placing wood ashes in a bottomless barrel set on a stone slab with a groove and a lip carved in it. The stone in turn rested on a pile of rocks. To prevent the ashes from getting in the solution a layer of straw and small sticks was placed in the barrel then the ashes were put on top. The lye was produced by slowly pouring water over the ashes until a brownish liquid oozed out the bottom of the barrel. This solution of potash lye was collected by allowing it to flow into the groove around the stone slab and drip down into a clay vessel at the lip of the groove. Some colonists used an ash hopper for the making of lye instead of the barrel method. The ash hopper, was kept in a shed to protect the ashes from being leached unintentionally by a rain fall. Ashes were added periodically and water was poured over at intervals to insure a continuous supply of lye. The lye dripped into a collecting vessel located beneath the hopper.
[Use whatever you have available or can make.]

Now The Fats Are Prepared
The preparation of the fats or grease to be used in forming the soap is the next step. This consists of cleaning the fats and grease of all other impurities contained in them. The cleaning of fats is called rendering and is the smelliest part of the soap making operation. Animal fat, when removed from the animals during butchering, must be rendered before soap of any satisfactory quality can be made from it. This rendering removes all meat tissues that still remain in the fat sections. Fat obtained from cattle is called tallow while fat obtained from pigs is called lard. If soap is being made from grease saved from cooking fires, it is also rendered to remove all impurities that have collected in it. The waste cooking grease being saved over a period of time without the benefits of refrigeration usually become rancid, so this cleaning step is very important to make the grease sweeter. It will result in a better smelling soap. The soap made from rancid fats or grease will work just as well assoap made from sweet and clean fats but not be as pleasant to have around and use. To render, fats and waste cooking grease are placed in a large kettle and an equal amount of water is added. Then the kettle is placed over the open fire outdoors. Soap making is an outside activity. The smell from rendering the fats is too strong to wish in anyone's house. The mixture of fats and water are boiled until all the fats have melted. After a longer period of boiling to insure completion of melting the fats, the fire is stopped and into the kettle is placed another amount of water about equal to the first amount of water. The solution is allowed to cool down and left over night. By the next day the fats have solidified and floated to the top forming a layer of clean fat. All the impurities being not as light as the fat remain in water underneath the fat. You may have observed this in your own kitchen. When a stew or casserole containing meat has been put in the refrigerator, you could see the next day the same fat layer.

Finally The Soap Making Can Begin
In another large kettle or pot the fat is placed with the amount of lye solution
determined to be the correct amount. This is easier said than done. We will discuss it more later. Then this pot is placed over a fire again outdoors and boiled. This mixture is boiled until the soap is formed. This is determined when the mixture boils up into a thick frothy mass, and a small amount placed on the tongue causes no noticeable "bite". This boiling process could take up to six to eight hours depending on the amount of the mixture and the strength of the lye.

Soft and Hard Soap
Soap made with wood ash lye does not make a hard soap but only a soft soap. When the fire is put out and the soap mixture allowed to cool, the next day reveals a brown jelly like substance that feels slippery to the touch, makes foam when mixed with water, and cleans. This is the soft soap the colonists had done all their hard work to produce. The soft soap is then poured into a wooden barrel and ladled out with a wooden dipper when needed. To make hard soap, common salt is thrown in at the end of the boiling. If this is done a hard cake of soap forms in a layer at the top of the pot. As common salt may be expensive and hard to get, it is not usually wasted to make hard soap. Common salt is more valuable to give to the livestock and the preserving of foods. Soft soap works just as well as hard and for these reasons the colonists, making their own soap, did not make hard soap bars. In towns and cities where there were soap makers making soap for sale, the soap could be converted to the hard soap by the addition of salt. As hard bars it will be easier to store and transport. Hard bars produced by the soap maker were often scented with oils such as lavender, wintergreen, or caraway and were sold as toilet soap to persons living in the cities or towns. Hard soap is not cut into small bars and wrapped as has been familiar. Soap made by the soap makers is poured into large wooden frames and removed when cooled and
hard. The amount of soap a customer wants can be cut from the large bar. Soap is sold usually by the pound. Small wrapped bars were not available until the middle of the 19th century [nor maybe shortly after the end of the 20th].

Difficulties in Making Soap
The hardest part is in determining if the lye is of the correct strength, as we have said. In order to learn this, the soap maker floats either a potato or an egg in the lye. If the object floats with a specified amount of its surface above the lye solution, the lye is declared fit for soap making. Most of the colonists felt that lye of the correct strength would float a potato or an egg with an area the size of a modern quarter above the surface. To make a weak lye stronger, the solution can either be boiled down more or the lye solution can be poured through a new batch of ashes. To make a solution weaker, water is added [more data to be added here on how to determine the correct strength of lye]. A Pennsylvania Dutch recipe once carefully warned that a sassafras stick was the only
kind of implement suitable for stirring the mixture [see Hulda Clark comment above re sassafras] and the stirring must be done always in the same direction [?].

 Not Always Done Down On The Farm
Soap making as a trade had grown in direct proportion with the growth of the colonies. Even in the very early days there were tradesmen making and selling soap, who were called soapboilers. Since tallow was the main ingredient for both soap and candles, many tradesmen were producers of both. These tradesmen were called chandlers.

Potash and Pearlash Trade
Soap making and the manufacture of potash and pearlashes were closely related
trades of colonial America. Pearlash, purified potash, because of its many\ industrial uses, was an important item of export for the colonies. Pearlash, in addition to soap making, was used for making glass both in the colonies and in Europe....Potash is the residue remaining after all the water has been driven off from the lye solution obtained from the leaching of wood ashes. Pearlash is then made from thepotash by baking it in a kiln until all the carbon impurities were burned off. The fine, white powder remaining was the Pearlash....

HOW TO MAKE OR HOW TO PRODUCE ANYTHING

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